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When curating a list of London’s top restaurants, one might anticipate renowned high-end names. However, tucked high among these gastronomic titans is a modest salonu situated in a outlying corner of northern London.

A Surprise Accolade

The small Turkish restaurant, concentrating in the specialties of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been crowned the fourth best restaurant in the capital by a respected food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally astonished,” remarks a proprietor, alluding to his family’s dedication that resulted in their modest restaurant securing such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

The Character of Modesty

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after spot, has maintained much of its original feel. It accommodates just more than 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It’s a tiny and intimate spot,” notes the owner.

A Namesake Dish: Tantuni

In the end, it is all down to the cuisine, and this establishment more than succeeds. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to preserve a tender quality.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the meaty mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is laid on top to soak in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

It is typically consumed with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The end result is a mighty punch of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all together.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A respected food critic labelled this dish “one of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to a sweet finish, the eatery’s künefe proves a treat. It is doused in less syrup than usual, giving it a deeper, nuttier and less sickly profile.

Outranking the Giants

Interestingly, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the top of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, similar meals at top-tier establishments can start at many times that amount.

The Philosophy of Hospitality

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well outside the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an expensive city. It is assumption that in an expensive place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I believe what is crucial is hospitality, a welcoming atmosphere and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s compiler, who suggested that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this spot as a masterclass, to show them the pitfalls of overthinking, and to demonstrate what is attainable if you do a few – or three – things to their absolute best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to many chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food didn’t train at Michelin-starred restaurants. “I am really pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” says her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its acclaim is owing to relentless, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum would be extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. All of it is handmade; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she had a life outside work but her friends would come here to encourage her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he says.

An Achievement for the Community

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own doors. “I believe many people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.