Mouth-watering kebabs, scented biryani, and whipped, ethereal desserts.
The metropolis in India's north of Lucknow has long been a food lovers' paradise, with inhabitants and travelers alike praising its remarkable cuisine.
Worldwide Recognition
Last month, UNESCO recognised it as a Creative City of Gastronomy – adding it to a prestigious list of global cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's exceptional food. With this designation, it becomes part of a global network of more than four hundred cities across more than 100 countries committed to promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The recognition "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and vibrant gastronomic culture," according to a official from UNESCO's regional bureau for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to secure a position in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A City Defined by Food
The recognition for this time-honored city is hardly a shock to its inhabitants or dedicated food lovers. Many agree with the sentiment that it is "better late than never".
With the UNESCO accolade, this adored, chaotic, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the spotlight for what has always defined its heart: an unparalleled devotion for food.
"'What will be cooked, the method of preparation' is a continued conversation from morning until night in most homes," states a local cultural expert. "And you are truly judged by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
An Imperial Food Tradition
The City of Nawabs – as it's often referred to after its 18th and 19th-century affluent Muslim rulers – is famed for its melt-in-the-mouth kebabs and a distinctive take on biryani that were invented, perfected, and taken to sublime levels in their opulent kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were hubs of gastronomic creativity, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the cuisine of Awadh.
It was during this time that Lucknow's iconic kebabs were developed. The story goes that the galouti kebab was devised to cater to an ageing nawab who had lost his teeth. His chefs minced the meat with raw papaya, kesar, and a blend of spices and made it so fine that it required no chewing.
But arguably the greatest contribution of the chefs of Awadh was the slow-cooking Dum pukht technique, where food is prepared on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid tightly closed with dough.
More Than Just Famous Dishes
Apart from the well-known kebabs and biryani, the cooks also developed a vast array of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a decadent bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a vegetarian's paradise.
The local Baniya community's cuisine doesn't just celebrates fresh harvests but also provides the city its meticulously prepared Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – tangy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on countless corners, there are little shops and kiosks – lesser-known treasures that are extremely popular with the locals.
In the central district of Hazratganj, huge crowds start assembling from early morning at a legendary tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, served in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
For breakfast, one can make their way to a simple joint operating in the historic quarter of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also offers special treats of the season, such as makkhan malai, a airy dessert savored in the winter. The technique of making it is scientific and involved. The artisan whisks the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the nighttime moisture to give it its incredible frothy texture.
On crisp mornings, street vendors are often seen in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. A number of though say that their younger generation are reluctant to learn the craft.
A well-known culinary expert from Lucknow has often said that the city's profound food legacy places it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The significant impact from the UNESCO recognition, however, will occur only if Lucknow can now create awareness about its hidden eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow comes with a history – influenced by multi-generational food businesses, from modest street carts to busy restaurants, and closely held family recipes.
The global recognition, it is believed, will motivate more people around the world to discover these narratives and travel to the city to taste the food wonders of Lucknow.
